Standing to mount - solo tips please

scruffyponies

scruffyponies

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My fault really, but I have allowed a situation where Shadow is an arse to mount.
As soon as I gather the reins, he's turning his head in towards me, dancing away, and occasionally aiming a kick or rearing... this is naughtiness, and stops as soon as I allow him to put his head down and eat.
Sometimes I allow him his head for a quiet life, and he's happy for me to mount whilst he's eating.
It's not that I can't get on whilst he's pratting around, but I think it's about time I put my foot down on manners.

I'm usually working alone. Does anyone have any tips?
 
Have you tried keeping the outside rein shorter to stop him turning his head in?
I would also suggest practicing in a school or somewhere safe where there isn't anything to eat, the lack of distraction might help. I remember reading somewhere (might have been one of the Henry Blake books) that if a horse won't stand to be mounted make it easier for him to behave by mounting in a corner and thus limiting the space he has to move around. This worked well for my boy, he'll now stand quite happily for me to get on wherever we are.
 
Oh gosh I really hope that someone comes up with a miracle cure for this!

I am making some progress, albeit slow, by gathering the reins slowly and following him until he settles. To be fair he sounds easier than yours as all he does is backs up rather than rearing. When he stands I give some praise and drop the reins. We do it a few times before we carry on to actually mounting. We have good days and bad days. On a good day I am up in just a few minutes. On a bad day it can be 30. If I am rushed I just get someone to hold him as I don't always have the time to add another 30 minutes to my ride.

For me putting him in the corner only worked for a while - once he cottoned on we then had the fight to get him into the corner! It is so annoying as he is great in every other way, just this one bad habit!

Good luck, and let me know if you find a good way to overcome this!
 
I have one that used to swing his bum out. I pulled the mounting block away from the wall so he could walk around it. Everytime he swung his butt out I would walk him around to the other side and try again (still standing on the mounting block) at the beginning he might walk around the block 10 times but as soon as he learnt he was either walking around the block or standing still to get on he gave up and now is fine, the mounting block is back to being tucked away by the wall.
 
Arlo used to be very nervous to be mounted, would try to walk off as soon as reins gathered or would shoot forward as soon as swinging leg over. I taught him to ‘park’. Essentially teaching them to bring their hindquarters over to you on a command. Originally I just did this on the ground. I then proceeded to teaching from the block. I now just walk over to the the block with his head facing me, I then give him the cue and he bring his quarters to me so he is next to the block. He is very easy and relaxed to mount this way, I feel this is because he is making the choice to move towards me, rather than me physically putting him where needed. It’s very handy having a horse that ‘parks’ too x
 
My miracle training was a method I watched at a Mark Rashid clinic. I "wasted" the first precious 15 minutes of my lessons on it for some years. But it was worth it because when I shared that horse and hacked her solo, she stood for me to get on her.
The problem is that Mark Rashid has since said that he no longer likes the method he used in my early days. He says that it only teaches the horse to walk in circles. He now uses a speedier way where he stands on the block and corrects the horse and lines it up with a whip. Much like described above.

The way I learned was to walk the horse in a small circle up to the block and step onto the box at the same time. Stop her straight at exactly the place you want. I would check the girth and stirrup, put some weight in it and then mount. If at any point the mare moved from the block, I would step off the block and lead her round in a circle back to the block. And begin again.
Our RI said the horses learned stuff from me because I was old and slow. So yes, i guess I did this slower than most people who own horses. That could ber part of the story but I think it is also conviction. I believed Rashid's methods would work and for me they always did.
 
Old school and not all of this to be recommended...
If they tie well outside, then tie and use moveable block round them. Clamber on and off it everywhere to groom and tack up.
Stand on it, pick up reins, get to half way of thinking about getting on, repeat a few or numerous times till horse does stand.

Next... with my old games pony, my mother used to then get on (told you not recommended!) and off.
She then mounted, once happy, she would undo headcollar and toddle off....

I prefer to not tie but park between 2 blocks, one permanent and the other a moveable one. We go together, if she went too far forward I then re positioned her, again and again.
Patience and praise, B Fuzzy will now stand wherever I put her and also wont move off (tho she is desperate to) till requested, taken 6 months and I still take my time a year later

Edited as spelling error!
 
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ponios said:
I have one that used to swing his bum out. I pulled the mounting block away from the wall so he could walk around it. Everytime he swung his butt out I would walk him around to the other side and try again (still standing on the mounting block) at the beginning he might walk around the block 10 times but as soon as he learnt he was either walking around the block or standing still to get on he gave up and now is fine, the mounting block is back to being tucked away by the wall.
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Yes, that it what someone told me to do. If they won't stand still, make them walk in a small circle and come back again to the mounting block and get them to stand. If they go to move off, them make them walk in circles again, until they realise it is easier to stand still and moving means more work. Of course, it goes without saying that there is nothing hurting or frightening them and it is just a case of poor habits.
 
ImmyS said:
Arlo used to be very nervous to be mounted, would try to walk off as soon as reins gathered or would shoot forward as soon as swinging leg over. I taught him to ‘park’. Essentially teaching them to bring their hindquarters over to you on a command. Originally I just did this on the ground. I then proceeded to teaching from the block. I now just walk over to the the block with his head facing me, I then give him the cue and he bring his quarters to me so he is next to the block. He is very easy and relaxed to mount this way, I feel this is because he is making the choice to move towards me, rather than me physically putting him where needed. It’s very handy having a horse that ‘parks’ too x
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Interesting. We teach a 'park' command too, but it's a different command for a different situation. When we have to dismount mid-ride (pick up dropped whip, check fallen child, whatever), we pop the reins around the rear of the saddle, and the pony 'parks' until needed. Very useful as it's not always easy or safe to pass your horse to someone else, or indeed hold it yourself whilst you manage things.
 
I'm mounting from the ground, since pony is only 14.1, but it sounds like introducing a mounting block might give a focus.

I could mount with him tied FF - I've made him sound like a dragon, but he's really not.
I have just thought of this but the same pony backs up in harness when I first take a contact. No problem once he's moving, accepts the bit, doesn't pull or head toss. Wish I could work out what he thinks he's trying to get away from. Could it be simple napping?
 
i wouldnt tie up and mount a bit too dangerous for me. my mare was a flighty type and i used to get on from the mounting block and she used to walk off immediately, so i had to be pretty agile. as i got older i wasnt so agile and had an accident as she felt me overbalancing and ran off depositing me on the ground. so next time i clipped a lead rope on to the bit and my friend held it loosely and gave her polos while i got on and off...after she realised she would get a polo she began to stand still without the lead rope and i gave her the polo from the saddle, i did this for the rest of her life and she always stood quietly for me to get on. i know its not the right way but it worked and neither of us got hurt or upset...
 
I love the park command, I used "stop" when my daughter was tiny, all the ponies were trained to this command, and most would over ride the little riders if I called out annnnd stop! ?

SP, yes it is a form of napping, as you've found out with him backing up when you have put him to and pick up. I really wouldn't advocate tying up, get practice in when you have the helpers around to start with.
Lots of repetitive standing required methinks x
 
I would never tie either as I find a natural reaction to being worried and tied up without anywhere to go is to panic and pull harder. Make sure you are not making it uncomfortable for your horse when you are mounting, Carson James I think it is does a great video on this. Otherwise I have found two things work for me. Either giving a treat on board after getting on gets them to stand still but also a mindset of not accepting loads of shenanigans without losing your temper. I correct the position if they move or do walk back in a circle, but I don't really hurry to get on if they are fidgeting, they need to stand still. It all gets boring quite quickly. But I have never had to deal with a horse who would be wound up by this so I'm sure it doesn't work for all.
 
My mare was awful to get on when I got her. She wouldn't stand at all, she would try to bite, cow kick and knock me off the block using her body. I went back to basics. Rewarded for standing still when I was standing on the block then progressed to leaning over the saddle then putting foot in stirrup. Took a while but she will stand anywhere now. She still waits for the treat when I'm on
 
I wonder if it's anything to do with any discomfort, even mild. If he's grand when his head is down, and the muscles along his top line elongated but a nuisance when his head is up, and the muscles contracted. It might be a contributing factor.

Though he could also just be being a little brattish at not being allowed to munch. How does he behave if you let him have his head but mount where there's no grass to reach down for?
Ignore all that waffle if his back is fine. I'm just musing.

If it's a well established behaviour though I'd move a mounting block near a wall to create barrier, shorten the off-side rein, pop up and praise, pop down and praise. Repeat until he learns that standing still is a great thing as it usually involves polos :)
 
thommackintosh said:
Though he could also just be being a little brattish at not being allowed to munch. How does he behave if you let him have his head but mount where there's no grass to reach down for?
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Much better if there isn't any food - or, as this morning, when I moved him out on to the lane, and he could eat a bush at head height instead.
 
A trainer once punched one of mine in the face for this. It didn't stop him doing it. What did stop him was teaching him to line up at a block or a fence using a whip for positioning and a treat when mounted.
 
Mine used to do anything to stop me getting on - just because she could and because I had not bothered to train her to do otherwise! I went for the method of repeatedly lining her up with the block and rewarding her with praise if she stood still, but walking her round in a circle if she moved. Always stopping the exercise on a good stand or whatever.

Then progressed to getting a foot in the stirrup - if moved, off on a circle, then get halfway up and instantly dismount etc etc. until I could sit on her with loose reins without her walking off. It worked - it took a far bit of patience, but I don't think it actually took more than a half dozen 10 minute sessions. She is now fine, whether in the yard or out hacking - but you do have to persevere subsequently with the never letting them walk off as you continue to mount.

Good luck!
 
I'm pretty boring with mounting issues and will just calmly reposition the horse where I want it again, and again, and again. it's dull at the start but it's great when you have fixed it and IME the fix is pretty permanent as long as you are consistent afterwards.

For a bad one I don't mind spending ages doing it, they do eventually learn to just stand where you put them.
A block is a handy marker and also makes it easier on their backs, even for a shortarse (i always mount my 14.2 from a block though I am quite able to get on from the ground).
squashing them between objects or against a wall doesn't solve the problem if you need to mount while you are away from home. they really need to learn to just stay put.

As mentioned above the outside rein is helpful to stop them swinging their bum away from you. and then it's a case of out-boring them, unless you have something that's actually been traumatised.
 
I do think most of the problem is that I am almost always mounting last, having helped sharers etc. I haven't taken the time to make him stand because I can manage well enough even when he doesn't, and it's quicker to just get on and get the ride moving.

They learn what you teach them. Same horse waits tied without complaint for as long as required, because he's used to me tacking him up, then ignoring him whilst I fuss around everyone else.
 
I tend to use positive reinforcement for mounting issues. It is usually sorted within a few sessions and by far the least stressful method for horse and rider

Step 1. walk up to the mounting block halt and then treat (several times until horse is v calm)

Step 2. Walk up to mounting block halt, treat, step towards the mounting block, treat (several times until the horse is calm)

Step 3. Repeat above but step up onto the mounting block, treat

Step 4. As above then put foot in stirrup, take out again, treat

Continue on in small steps until you can mount.

Over a number of sessions reduce it down until you only treat step 1 and once mounted then down to only after mounting then swap for a wither scratch and a treat the odd time
 
Would agree with the advice of many above and suggest keep repositioning until they are bored and standstill. Mine used to rear, back up and also be a bit of an idiot (the school is next to her field mates so she's just taking the mick and wants to go see them, no pain) and we've basically got it sorted by doing this.

Does he stand still once you are on? If not my suggestion would be to not swing over, wait until stood (have a rein in each hand and ask for a halt, small circle etc with verbal que) pop off when still and repeat, repeat, repeat. The whole process gets boring eventually!

Edit to add although I don't mind treats in the right circumstances i'd be concerned about being mobbed at the mounting block if I were to give treats like above. Horse in question is already a bit rude with food (trying to get the grass) and you don't really want them turning in like I anticipate mine would if they thought there was a treat involved! I'm sure it works but i'd be cautious using it with this horse.
 
redapple said:
Would agree with the advice of many above and suggest keep repositioning until they are bored and standstill. Mine used to rear, back up and also be a bit of an idiot (the school is next to her field mates so she's just taking the mick and wants to go see them, no pain) and we've basically got it sorted by doing this.

Does he stand still once you are on? If not my suggestion would be to not swing over, wait until stood (have a rein in each hand and ask for a halt, small circle etc with verbal que) pop off when still and repeat, repeat, repeat. The whole process gets boring eventually!

Edit to add although I don't mind treats in the right circumstances i'd be concerned about being mobbed at the mounting block if I were to give treats like above. Horse in question is already a bit rude with food (trying to get the grass) and you don't really want them turning in like I anticipate mine would if they thought there was a treat involved! I'm sure it works but i'd be cautious using it with this horse.
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Positive reinforcement using treats works exceptionally well with food orientated horses. They only get the reward when they are displaying the behaviour you want. So if the horse is turning in to you they dont get a treat and if they are standing still facing forwards exactly where you put them then they do a get a treat. The ones who love their food learn very quickly what you want and they then want it too because they get a reward.

One of mine would stand relatively ok for me to get on (not great but not too terrible) but would be away at speed before I could get my other foot in the stirrup. Using positive reinforcement I resolved this in 2 sessions so no need to be going round in circles until anyone is bored or frustrated with the process. And yes, he is very food orientated :)
 
He stands fine once mounted, except on the rare occasion where he's really excited. An example would be where he had been separated from his best mates for a fortnight, tacked up and waited for 20 mins, then mounted just as they met up with him. He was dancing about like a prat wanting to see his friends, which i think is understandable. Even then he was fine as soon as we moved off.
 
I know people say you shouldn't use treats - but sometimes it works really well. Both my ponies know that they don't move until they've had their treat! Works well to get on, sort girth etc they get a treat then off we go :D
 
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