What's the problem with glycerine saddle soap?

[soloequestrian]

A few bits of tack I've bought over the last few years recommend not using glycerine soap on them (Fairfax girth, an anatomical bridle I bought recently). I've got bits of tack that have been conditioned with glycerine soap for many years that are still in good order. Has it just gone out of fashion or am I missing something??

 

[Mule]

A few bits of tack I've bought over the last few years recommend not using glycerine soap on them (Fairfax girth, an anatomical bridle I bought recently). I've got bits of tack that have been conditioned with glycerine soap for many years that are still in good order. Has it just gone out of fashion or am I missing something??

I've wondered the same. I hadn't used it in years but borrowed some recently. It cleaned the tack very well.

 

[milliepops]

i think the issue is that it attracts moisture but only to the top layer where you've actually applied the soap,so it tend to encourage mould but not actually condition your leather.

 

[Lady Jane]

I think you will find that some of the high quality leather available today has been treated in a way that does not require glycerine soap, and in fact the glycerine would damage the leather because of how it has been treated. Using oil is also usually a no no on these products. I can't be more specific but am interested in other more specific replies

 

[HeyMich]

Yes, when I bought a new saddle a couple of years ago, I was told by the saddler not to use glycerine soap. I can't remember why though, sorry! Something to do with modern leather and the stitching.

 

[Pippity]

From the instructions that came with Oz's marvellous leather conditioner, the pH of glycerine is wrong for hides tanned using modern methods. Also, it's a humectant which means it absorbs moisture from the surrounding air and encourages mould growth.

 

[cremedemonthe]

As Pippety has said. It also can leave what we call "jockeys" on the hide after use, it is the build up of the soap and grease, jockeys are hard black lumps difficult to remove.
Modern hides are not as good as the older traditional hides from yesteryear.. I have noticed the difference in quality over the years, the hides we were using in 1987 when I first trained were being moaned about by our tutors, the saddlers and harness makers who taught us. They said the hides today (in 1987) were not as good as hides from the 1940's-50's. Today I would say the hides available now in some cases are not as good as the 1987 hides. They lack a good substance, are too thin. I struggle to get 5mm thick bridle butts , most are 4-4.5mm max. A good quality bridle butt 5mm hide will have a breaking strain of around 5,000lbs per square inch, vastly superior to what's out there now in most cases but people have veered away from "chunky" thick leather. You only have to look at how many people ask for non bulky stirrup leathers, that means thinner hides.
Lack of finishing has a lot to do with it too (currier's job) as well as the tanning process itself, chemicals now used, the rearing and slaughtering of the cattle as well as global climit change, water quality, speed to tan the hides, it all adds up to hides that can't always handle glycerine saddle soap.

Oz

 

[webble]

Oz what would you recommend for cleaning and maintenance now?

 

[honetpot]

As Pippety has said. It also can leave what we call "jockeys" on the hide after use, it is the build up of the soap and grease, jockeys are hard black lumps difficult to remove.
Modern hides are not as good as the older traditional hides from yesteryear.. I have noticed the difference in quality over the years, the hides we were using in 1987 when I first trained were being moaned about by our tutors, the saddlers and harness makers who taught us. They said the hides today (in 1987) were not as good as hides from the 1940's-50's. Today I would say the hides available now in some cases are not as good as the 1987 hides. They lack a good substance, are too thin. I struggle to get 5mm thick bridle butts , most are 4-4.5mm max. A good quality bridle butt 5mm hide will have a breaking strain of around 5,000lbs per square inch, vastly superior to what's out there now in most cases but people have veered away from "chunky" thick leather. You only have to look at how many people ask for non bulky stirrup leathers, that means thinner hides.
Lack of finishing has a lot to do with it too (currier's job) as well as the tanning process itself, chemicals now used, the rearing and slaughtering of the cattle as well as global climit change, water quality, speed to tan the hides, it all adds up to hides that can't always handle glycerine saddle soap.

Oz

I have a lot of old leather, 1970's and a couple of bits I have no idea how old they are, and I have always used a good quality leather dressing and glycerine soap to finish. I have a couple of modern bridles, it's almost impossible now to buy good quality English tanned leather, the thing I have noticed the most is new leather seems to be coated to give a finish, so the core of the leather is really dry and brittle, and what ever you put on it, it never improves, old leather gets better with age.
How you store leather is really important, if you store it somewhere damp, it's never going to do well. You need to keep it like your hands, and apply cream when needed, but not too much, so its slippery and wet. Most of the time its used, I now just clean with a damp micro fibre cloth, and only top it up when it starts to feel dry.

 

[sbloom]

Oz what would you recommend for cleaning and maintenance now?

Oz makes his own which I highly recommend, and stock for my customers. Clean with a cloth like a cotton dishcloth, gives your elbow grease a bit more bite without being harsh on the leather, and are washable so relatively eco friendly. Use a good wax based conditioner as needed, over conditioned leather loses its body, dry leather can have pale marks. And yes, even some of the really pricey leathers coming out of Walsall and elsewhere have coatings, most are semi aniline so you can look it up. If it's very matt on the reverse, almost suede like, and soft from the get go, then it's probably better quality. However you don't want it to be too thin, some "memel" leathers on made-to-a-price saddles is too thin and goes floppy really fast.

I also believe that the dodgy chemicals that gave us great tanning are now banned.

 

[soloequestrian]

Thanks, all very helpful. Wax-based it is.
I was thinking that perhaps there was a good reason the tanning is different now - hopefully lower incidence of cancer in tanners!

 

[Sir barnaby]

Which wax based make is recommended I have a couple of wax based tubs for cleaning tack that I have bought in sales. but I do tend to use the spray glycerine on my tack as it is all english leather at the moment and much quicker.

 

[cremedemonthe]

Oz what would you recommend for cleaning and maintenance now?

I have a recipe to make your own, if you want it and the info that goes with it PM me, Oz

 

[rabatsa]

I have made to Oz's recipe and use it all the time now.

 

[TGM]

We use the EqWax Leather Care Balm on our leather work - brings everything up beautifully and you only use it sparingly.

 

[scruffyponies]

Others have said don't store your leather damp. True, but these days it is more common to have problems from storing in central heated buildings which are far too dry.